Pucci shows A New Array Of Color

PucciThe British designer Matthew Williamson took the Navajo path in his collection for Pucci at Milan Fashion Week.

The collection blazed a trail of brilliant color, mixing pinks, reds and oranges and dazzling hues of turquoise with black, white and tan.

The prints, inspired by traditional native American blankets and jewelry, juxtaposed zigzag patterns and arrow-heads with sun and moon motifs, on silk kimono-jackets, slinky silk jersey dresses, loose-fitting trousers, A-line short skirts and shorts.

The striking patterns were also worked in gold leather or appliquéd in colored snakeskin on to fringed suede jackets and coats.

Navajo beadwork trimmed the cuffs, hems and necklines of kaftans and was even used for a plunge-front swimsuit — most definitely designed for posing, not the pool.

This collection, for spring/summer 2008, marks the first time Williamson has stepped away from the archives and developed his own prints for the legendary company, founded in Florence in 1947 by Count Emilio Pucci, the man who was known as “the Prince of Prints”.

Williamson, 35, who became creative director two years ago, said he now felt confident enough to move away from the psychedelic swirls that had been the house’s signature and stamp his own mark on the Pucci brand.

“I took inspiration for the shapes from the archives, but the prints were mine.”

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