Fendi for Frieze and Fabulous

The first hint that we were about to experience something really special was the wonderful scent of pine that wafted through the fall 2007 show space of Fendi, Thursday afternoon in Milan. Then we saw a spectacular, modernist and cerebreal lineup of great clothes.

All that time Karl Lagerfeld’s been spending viewing contemporary art paid dividends with a genuinely eye-popping set of a wooden backdrop, seating bleachers and catwalk all in freshly cut pine that recalled a cool art gallery booth in London at Frieze or in Miami at Art Basel. It also immediately injected a savvy “on est au courant” air to a molto traditional label like Fendi.

Featuring the best casting we’ve seen in Milan – Natascha Poly, Valentina, Lara Stone, Suvi to name a few – the collection was a testament to the way that fur still drives designers to new sartorial heights. From remarkable harlequin sleeved and cuffed white mink jackets to zig zag patterned fox redingotes, this was a gutsy yet sophisticated display.

It was a wonderful interpretation of how to use volume in a way that is novel, flattering and, above all, never improbable. The opening featured some great micro minis with curvy trim, before moving to subtly ballooned looks sure to flatter less than ideal figures.

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